Europe is at the beginning of its journey towards a more circular economy, aiming to become the world’s most sustainable region. Digital product passport (DPP), included in the Ecodesign Directive, are soon to become a reality for many industries, with textiles leading the way. But what is needed for a digital product passport to accompany a garment’s journey from raw material to finished product?
Challenges in the textile industry
Textile production continues to rise, with fast fashion enticing many to consume. Yet, annually, 11 kg of textiles per person are discarded within the EU. The linear textile industry needs to transition to a more sustainable and circular model where material use and waste are minimized. The upcoming digital product passport requires companies to disclose the materials a product contains and how it can be repaired and recycled. This empowers consumers to make more sustainable choices. The challenge lies in the complexity of textile materials, requiring companies to access more data to achieve the traceability that digital product passport demands.
Pilot for digital product passport in textiles
To explore the development, opportunities, and challenges of digital product passport for textiles, a pilot project initiated by Trace4Value was created. Collaborating partners include GS1 Sweden, TrusTrace, Marimekko, Kappahl, Elis, SIS, TEXroad Foundation, Circularista, 2bPolicy, Trimco Group, Rudholm & Haak, and Alto University (master’s thesis).
The pilot project tests product passes on garments in production to investigate the new system’s potential, the data needed, and how it can be presented to consumers. The product pass should include a unique product identifier and facilitate data sharing among different parties by adhering to standards and utilizing existing frameworks from other projects/initiatives.
The selected garments are from Kappahl’s and Marimekko’s product lines. These items are marked with a two-dimensional code, such as a QR code, linked to specific product data generating a Global Trade Item Number. The digital product passport will store data on the supply chain, accessible to consumers, brands, and authorities from the point of sale.
The solution utilizes GS1 Digital Link, a standard linking product information to the web through scannable carriers like QR codes. When scanned, a request is sent to a resolver identifying where the product’s specific data is located. The data is validated and retrieved from different sources via APIs, appearing on the mobile screen. Data can be stored in decentralized data storage, and in this test pilot, it’s stored on two different platforms.
Expected results and goals of the project
- Enhance sustainable production
- Transition to a circular economy
- Enable authorities to verify compliance
- Assist consumers in making sustainable choices
- Create new business opportunities
- One of the project’s key outcomes is a data protocol identifying data needs and enabling information exchange. The protocol includes:
– Structure and categorization of data attributes based on standards
– Identified data needs based on brand and consumer requirements, DPP guidance from the EU, and relevant policies.
In January 2024, the first products with a version of the digital product passport were launched, both from Kappahl’s and Marimekko’s product lines. Consumers can access sustainability data regarding materials, suppliers, environmental labeling, and how garments can circulate.
The pilot will provide valuable input to participants on how the product passes function practically for customers. Additionally, it’s a step forward in identifying necessary data and preparing operations and value chains for upcoming digital product passport requirements.
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David Almroth, Head of Expansion, GS1 Sweden