Photo: Global Fashion AgendaAt the end of May, the Global Fashion Summit (GFS ) was organized for the 15th time. This year’s theme was ‘Unlocking the Next Level’, bringing together the fashion industry to explore ways towards a more sustainable and ethical future.
Many aspects need to be taken into account to make the fashion industry more sustainable, but the importance of moving from promises to concrete actions was emphasized by most speakers. At the Global Fashion Summit, it was mentioned that the fashion industry’s sustainability performance has deteriorated despite years of efforts. The measures taken have simply not been sufficient.
What did they talk about?
Many interesting presentations were held during the two days of the GFS, and below I summarize some of the topics the speakers raised. Since standards are the core business of GS1 Sweden, these summaries are described with a little extra focus on the role of standards.
Ecodesign Directive
The upcoming EU regulations were discussed extensively. “Business as usual” no longer works; business models need to become more circular to achieve the Ecodesign Directive.
During the session “Unpacking Policy: Eco Design Principles,” António de Sousa Maia from the European Commission discussed the importance of collaboration among industry stakeholders, including brands, suppliers, and technology providers, to create an ecosystem that supports sustainable practices. He also talked about how standards and regulations can be used to steer the industry towards more sustainable practices and material choices.
During GFS, there was also a discussion on how fashion designers and product developers can use new regulations as an opportunity to create more sustainable and innovative products. By understanding and applying regulations for sustainable products, the industry can set new standards for design and production.
António de Sousa Maia, European Commission. Photo: Global Fashion AgendaCooperation
The importance of cooperation was highlighted several times. One of them was Paul Polman, co-author of the book Net Positive. He called for a shift from individual actions to collective efforts, emphasizing that the fashion industry’s success in becoming sustainable will depend on its ability to collaborate and implement systematic changes. He encouraged fashion designers to integrate sustainability into their business models, with a focus on circularity, transparency, and fair value chains.
On the subject of value chains, Paul urged the audience to start looking at their own value chains. He argued that many have links in their value chains that have been unchecked for too long. Everyone needs to start taking full responsibility for the impact of their product and the value chain is extremely important to control.
Some of the messages Paul concluded his presentation “Lead or be led” with were:
- Be transparent, it contributes to reliability.
- Ensure to lead by collaborating with partners.
- Don’t see the upcoming regulatory requirements as an obstacle or threat to your business. See them as a positive mechanism to take the textile industry to new heights.
- Go from fast fashion to slow fashion.
- Move from wasteful to circularity.
- Move from destructive to regenerative.
Paul Polman, co-author Net Positive. Photo: Global Fashion AgendaTransparency and traceability
Several discussions on transparency and traceability emphasized the importance of increasing visibility and accountability within the fashion industry supply chains. One of the central topics was how companies can trace materials from origin to final product, which is crucial for ensuring sustainability and fair labor conditions.
During the session “Tackling Transparency: From Farms to Fabric,” successes and challenges of a transparency program for cotton fibers were discussed, including how collecting data from the field level can promote sustainable agricultural practices and strengthen the entire supply chain.
During the session “Enabling Efficiency and Sustainability Through Traceability” (co-hosted by GS1 Sweden, Filippa K, and TrusTrace), the importance of implementing international standards and certifications was emphasized to ensure that the entire industry adheres to the same guidelines for sustainability and traceability. Additionally, the need for data was highlighted, emphasizing that companies need to map their situation: what data do we need? Where is it located within the organization, and who is responsible for it? how can we digitize the data? and how can we keep track of it? The recommendation here was to start small and then involve other parties gradually. Eventually, companies need to be able to share their data upstream and downstream.
GS1 Sweden, Filippa K and TrusTrace at the Global Fashion Summit. Photo: Global Fashion AgendaCircular economy and recycling
One of the most prominent topics at this year’s Global Fashion Summit has been the discussion on circular economy and recycling within the fashion industry. Experts have shared insights on the importance of creating a model where products are reused, recycled, and remanufactured to reduce waste and preserve resources.
Consumer awareness
The discussion wasn’t just about the responsibility of companies in the journey towards becoming more sustainable. Many speakers also mentioned the consumer’s responsibility in driving change within the fashion industry. By making sustainability information accessible, consumers have greater opportunities to make sustainable choices, which in turn can create a stronger force for systematic change within the fashion industry. The more information consumers receive, the more they can drive demand for responsibly produced goods.
Overall, the Global Fashion Summit highlighted the fashion industry’s ongoing struggle to balance ambitious sustainability goals with practical implementation challenges. The importance of collaboration among different stakeholders in the industry was emphasized, and there was a call for more immediate and concrete actions to achieve a more sustainable and transparent fashion industry. In the journey towards sustainability, regulations and standards will play a significant role in guiding the industry towards more sustainable practices.
Author: Karolin Catela, Product Specialist, GS1 Sweden
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David Almroth, Head of Expansion, GS1 Sweden